Zahle: A Tribute To My Hometown

Let’s talk Zahle. My beautiful hometown. As I have mentioned earlier, I myself am more of  a Beiruti at heart, as I love the wild city, traffic, loud music, and the ocean. But still… Zahle is the mother (I guess you can call it), while Beirut adopted me, or for more accurate terms, kidnapped me. Just because I love techno over dabke, doesn’t mean I’m not Zahlewi at heart. Or does it? Anyways, my Zahlewi accent has stuck to me, that Beirut could not change! So here is my simple lesson on Zahle, the city of Chivalry, Poetry, Courage, Love, and Adventure. Time to shed light on one of Lebanon’s favorite cities! Enjoy!

A Simple Introduction: The “Bride of The Bekaa” is what Zahle is called… and oh what a bride it is. Zahle is a city located in the heart of the Bekaa Valley. It is the capital of the Bekaa governate, as it is the most important comercial city in the province.It is the largest city in the Bekaa, and declared the third largest city in Lebanon. It has an elevation of 950 meters and is situated in the “heart of Lebanon” with an ideal location that is mid-distance between the South and the North, the West and the East. The city is located on, and in between, two touching hills, with the Berdouni river flowing in between. It is on the Eastern slopes of Jabal Sannine and surrounded by some of the most fertile land in the Middle East. Wheat and other grains are grown around the city, while vineyards and wineries (most notably Ksara) is what makes this city famous. It is also known as “The City of Wine and Poetry”, and thats what makes it… well… Zahle. Keep in mind that by poetry, I also am including Zajal (a post on Zajal is in the works as well) the Lebanese form of poetry. The city is notable for it’s traditional red-roofed houses, which are quickly visible in any picture of the city, and of course the proud Berdouni River which cuts through the city.

Zahle has an estimated population of 150,000 people, mostly being Christians. It is said Zahle is the largest Christian city in all of the Middle East, toping cities located in Syria, Iraq, and Palestine.  There are Muslims found in Zahle, a Sunni population mostly located in Hawch El Omara, and a small Shiite population in an area called “El-Karak”.  Being tucked away, and hidden, from the coast, the Zahlewiyi (or people of Zahle) developed their own way of doing things. We have become distinct in our Lebanese accent as well, having our own flair I guess you could say… and a long list of words only people from this city use. We have also been called hard headed, stubborn and “fierce”. In the Bekaa, when someone is stubborn the common question is “shu hay2a feek sheresh Zahlewi?”…can’t forget that haha.

Climate: During the winter months Zahle is covered in snow, and like most cities and towns of the Bekaa, it is very cold… sometimes below zero. But during the summer, it’s elevation keeps it dry and the air feeling light. It is sought out during the summer by many people trying to escape the humidity of Beirut, and more recently… the Gulf countries.

History: It is said  Zahle was founded 300 years ago by Christian refugees coming to the area from Northern Syria at around 1700. Although Zahle is said to be 300 years old, the area in which it is located dates back to some 5 millenias. Nadim Hobeika the Great burnt Zahle down in 1777 and 1791, and it was burned and plundered again in 1860. But during the rule of the Mutasarrifiah, Zahle regained its prosperity. The railroad line, which came through in 1885, improved trade and Zahle became the internal “port” of the Bekaa and Syria. It was the center of agriculture and trade between Beirut and Damascus, Mosul, and Baghdad. Many do not know, but Zahle is considered the birthplace of the Lebanese army, and has always played a major role in Lebanon’s politics. Another historic fact of Zahle is that during the 18th century, Zahle was divided into 3 seperate quarters,and each one had it’s own governor. During the 19th century, Zahle was the regions first independent state, having it’s own flag and national anthem! Zahle claims to be the founder of the Lebanese Mezze, a claim very well supported by the delicious cooking of the people in this city. Come on… Lebanese singing legend Wdi3 el Safi doesn’t start of his song “Jayeen Ya Arz el Jabal” with the words “Shta2na la Zahle, w jorn kibbitha” for nothing! [Translation: We miss Zahle and it's kibbi - in simplest terms ]. Who can argue with that esteiz Wdi3? Afterall the cafe’s and restaurants on the Berdouni River are the best example of Lebanese Mezze! P.s. Arak, the anise-seed drink is famous from this area as well… Arak Zahle. Ahhh. The origin of the name “Zahle” is disputed. Some historians link it to Zohal- the Roman god of fertility, while others think it is derived from Zahal- the Aramean word meaning slip or collapse (due to the snowy hills sometimes covered in ice). King Zahlan is sometimes credited for the creation of Zahle’s name, as history states Zahle was his home during the Arab conquest of the Bekaa.

What to do: Zahle is home to the Ksara winnery, so wine tasting or a day at the vineyards is on the list. I remember when the winery would allow groups of women into its vineyards to pick the leaves of the grape vines to, which is used to make “Warra2 3enab” or “Grape-Leave Rolls”. El-wadi is also an area in Zahle located in between the rocky slopes of the two hills I mentioned earlier. Restaurants, casinos, the bumper cars, and small vendors line this area making it a MUST SEE. Zahle’s main street is lined with shops and clothing stores, where there is something for everyone. The tree-shaded cafes of the Berdouni are also a must see when in Zahle, as it is often called the area with the best “out-door” eating experience in Lebanon. I remember them perfectly, with large fountains and pools, shady trees, and the best argeeli you will ever come across. Not to mention the food…oh the food! The city also has hundreds of beautiful churches, some very very old, and the statue of the Holy Virgin protecting the city. Many old dwellings are found in the city, some with 24 rooms, built in the traditional Lebanese style.  Around Zahle there is Karak-Nuh as well, where Noah is claimed to have been buried. The tomb is meters upon meters long. History has it, he was buried there with his knees bent, and the grave is still this long.

Famous People: Well who else to start the list off with besides Najwa Karam (the love of my life LOL), Wael Kfoury, Pascale Saqr, and so on. List of people is long.

This was my simple information session on Zahle. My hometown. I have a personal post on Zahle in the making, so stay tuned to that…. How can I get down and personal with Zahle, if I don’t introduce her first?! <3

Pictures:

Zahle - photo taken by Boulus Jadallah ( @paulinbeirut )

Berdouni River - Photo taken by Boulus Jadallah ( @paulinbeirut )

Zahle - Photo taken by Boulus Jadallah ( @paulinbeirut )

Monte Alberto

Zahle

Berdouni Cafes

Another view

Zahle

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Our Lady of Zahle and the Bekaa

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Winter!

Winter Again

Saydet Zahle wil Bekaa

More Beauty!

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